Setting up the cat and the environment
Supplies
Playpen
Diameter: 62” ideal, 52” ok, 45” absolute minimum (and in some cases 45” is still too small); Height: 24” ideal, 30” ok, 36” as long as you can step over
Do whatever it takes to be able to set up the cat in a playpen. It makes a huge difference and accelerates socialization. The playpens we use are dog playpens with a mesh ceiling so that the cat can’t jump out. Make sure to read and watch all the content about playpens further below. Watch the Theory video to understand why using a crate is one of the worst things you can do when socializing. In addition to preventing all the crate issues, the playpen enables you to sit in the same space as the cat to be able to lure the cat to you and have the cat decide to come over, engage with and touch you. The reason why a playpen is much more effective (especially initially) than having the cat in a room is that you are able to control the hiding spaces of the cat. You must give the cat a cat cave—a place for the cat to feel safe (more on cat caves below). If a cat is hiding in the closet or under the bed or dresser, you can’t interact with the cat. Unfortunately, the ways the traditional forced love approach handles this is to reach in and grab the cat or reach in and try to pet the cat. Imagine hiding from a monster and the only thing you see coming through the narrow opening is a hand coming right at you. That is frightening. The alternative is to leave the cat alone to hide, then you’ll find months later that the cat hasn’t made any progress on his own.
Read more below on why bathrooms (that you actually use for the shower and toilet) are very scary for the cat, and recommended alternatives as a last resort if you can’t fit a playpen. But before you think that’s your only option, look at your space and see what furniture you can push around to make space. It’ll only be for a few weeks of inconvenience to you (the playpen is only the initial stages of socialization), but it’ll mean the opportunity to have a loving family and good life for the cat. (Let’s face it, scared or feral cats usually do not get adopted.) If you have some options with regards to placement, I cover the best places to put the playpen further below.
Larger playpens are better, especially if you are not a short/petite person and if the cat is more scared. This is because when you start, you need to have enough space between you and the cat. If your leg is right up against the cat cave opening when you sit in the playpen, that is scary for the cat and will make the cat too scared to come out of the cave. Initially we sit sideways of the cat at the totally opposite side of the playpen to maximize the space between us, then when we start treat work we sit a tad more than arm’s length away from the cat cave opening.
I discuss the difference between a 24” and a 36” height in a video below. I personally use playpens that have a 24” height and 62” diameter.
Sometimes you have playful and naughty resident cats who keep jumping on top of the playpen and collapsing it. If that happens, here are some suggestions. It is more important to have the cat not experience having the playpen keep collapsing on him (very scary).
First try the Winipet 62” x 36” playpen linked below because we’ve seen it withstand a 10 lb cat sitting on top of it. If that doesn’t work, you can get the Milliard play yard, remove the fabric lining of the play yard and place only the frame inside the 62” x 36” playpen to add structure to the walls. If that still doesn’t work for some reason (it should) then move the cat out of the playpen. Read the section further below that discusses options if you absolutely cannot use a playpen. Remember, if you don’t use a playpen expect socialization to take much longer (even more than twice as long).
For all of the links below, make sure to read the description of the different sizes to ensure you are getting the correct diameter and height in case they change over time.
Winipet various sizes & cat jump proof - The Winipet 62” x 36” does not collapse when a 10 lb cat sits on top of it. The 62” x 30” and 62” x 24” can also withstand the weight of a cat on top. If a cat jumps on the corner, it may squish in about 6” but it will not collapse. I am switching to the Winipet for future playpen orders when there is another cat in the home. Winipet offers multiple sizes including 48” x 24”, 48” x 32” and 52” x 32”. See further below when I talk about 24” vs. 36” height as to why height matters and to determine the best height for you.
Fabulous Pet 62” x 24” - The playpen that I also use (medium should be 62” x 24”). A good option if you don’t have other cats in the home who might try to jump onto the playpen. I like it because the whole ceiling is mesh so that I can zip the ceiling around my shoulders and still be able to make eye contact with and slow blink the cat (vs. the Winipet and many others have half solid and half mesh ceilings).
Zampa 45” x 24” - This is the 45” playpen that I use
Zampa 61” x 30” - Zampa also has a 61'“ x 30” which may be low enough for you to step in and more comfortable to sit in because it is a little taller. See further below when I talk about 24” vs. 36” height as to why height matters.
ENVIRONMENT & TOYS
FOOD & TREATS
Wet treats are ideal for socialization because we can use it to lure the cat towards us and over our legs. With dry treats, the cat can grab the treat then step backwards.
There are rare situations when a cat just wants nothing to do with wet treats and will only work with you for dry treats. We’ll cover that in the variations sections—ideally using a really yummy (maybe seafood flavor) kibble.
Baby Food
The healthiest would be to use Gerber or Beech-nut baby food. We only use baby food to socialize kittens under 14 weeks old because they have very sensitive stomachs. Make sure the baby food only contains meat and water/broth because some ingredients such as onions and garlic can cause anemia and potentially death for cats. Gerber includes cornstarch so I prefer to use Beech-Nut (Wal-mart.com has better prices than Amazon for Beechnut). If you use Beech-nut do not use the Beef flavor because it includes lemon juice. Many grocery stores in the U.S. also carry Gerber and/or Beech-nut.
Squeezable Treats
Most cats go crazy for the Churu squeezable treats but it’s important to only give 2 sticks a day, otherwise it can cause diarrhea and stomach issues since we socialize daily. Some cats are very sensitive and can only eat one stick a day before getting diarrhea. The Petco “Whole Hearted” brand squeezable treats have simpler ingredients so would be healthier and less likely to cause diarrhea. Tiki Cat is also a (cat) fan favorite.
Remember, if a particular brand (or even flavor of a brand) isn't valuable enough to the cat, try a different one. I’ve had cats that could only be lured with one particular flavor of Churu. I lean towards Whole Hearted so I don’t cause stomach issues, but for some cats Whole Hearted isn’t tempting enough. There are also other brands of squeezable cat treats beyond those listed below, so explore your options and see which one the cat loves!
Churu mixed flavor - some cats will like all flavors and some cats will only like a certain flavor of Churu
Churu chicken with cheese flavor - some cats cannot eat seafood or have more sensitive stomachs. This flavor doesn’t contain seafood. The chicken only flavor contains seafood.
Whole Hearted - the link is to the chicken flavor version, but there are other flavors as well. Find the flavor that your cat loves! Because this has simpler ingredients, it is healthier but it is a bit drippy when it comes out of the stick. I’ve started to use the Petco “Whole Hearted” brand squeezable treats more and more because they don’t cause issues for cats with a sensitive stomach. I have two cats who vomit immediately when they get any treats (Churu, Greenies, Temptations etc.) but they don’t vomit with the “Whole Hearted” Chicken treats.
Dry Treats
Since too many dry treats can cause diarrhea, I prefer to use dry kibble. So first try to find a dry kibble brand and flavor that the cat loves. But if the kibble isn’t enticing enough, then use dry treats. Greenies are healthier, but most cats cannot resist Temptations. You can also try freeze-dried treats , which are healthier but a little messier. Break up the freeze dried treats if they come in large chunks. Give a maximum 10 - 15 pieces a day because treats cause diarrhea.
Greenies - you can try different flavors
Temptations - you can try different flavors
Instinct Mixers - these toppers are also great as treats, similar to other freeze dried treats, break them up into smaller pieces to be able to get more mileage
Wet/Canned Food (Do not feed dry food & when to socialize)
Feed only wet food. Feed the cat twice a day (feed kittens three times a day). You will do your daily socialization session just before a meal in order to maximize the value of the treat during the socialization. I see a big difference in how far the cat will go when I socialize just before a meal or after a meal. If you free feed dry food all day, you won’t be able to get this benefit. Some traditional approach advice tells you to reduce the amount of food that you feed the cat. Do not do that! Read the Key Points in the Theory and Background section for details as to why.
We also want to save the dry kibble to be something special so that we can use it as a treat. Some cats are not wet treat motivated and we may need to use dry treats for socialization. We also rely on dry kibble for the Approach sequence. If the cat also eats the kibble for meals, then it is no longer special and loses its value.
Feed 3 oz to 5 oz per meal per cat, give more if its a gravy type of food because those tend to contain more liquid and less “food.” I personally feed only wet food, even for cats who do not need socialization. I figure out how much the cat needs by initially feeding too much so that there is leftover, then I start reducing by small amounts per meal until the cat finishes it all. I find that when cats eat only wet food, they do not become obese. It is the dry kibble with fillers that tends to cause excess weight. It’s also healthier to feed only wet food (or primarily wet food with 2-3 tablespoons of dry food per meal as long as the cat finishes all the dry in one sitting). Check out catinfo.org for more information.
I have encountered a few rescue cats (and many kittens) who tended to have diarrhea (all fecal panels were negative). Adding a small amount of dry food as a supplement to their meals firmed up their poop.
If a cat has dietary restrictions due to medical situations or allergies and the cat cannot eat or does not like any of the squeezable stick treats or baby food, use the cat’s favorite flavor of his food as the socialization treat. Do not feed that flavor for meals because it will lose it’s value.
Dry Kibble
Do not feed dry kibble for meals (see “Wet/Canned Food” above for details as to why). We use dry kibble as treats, particularly in the Approach Sequence. Try to find a brand/flavor that the cat really loves so it has high value.
Coffee Grinder
For cats who aren’t wet treat motivated and insist on dry treats, you can crush the following items with a coffee grinder and sprinkle it on top of baby food on a lick mat: freeze dried chicken treats (you can rip apart with your fingers instead of using a coffee grinder), dry kibble or dry treats (but max 15 pieces of dry treats per day otherwise it can also cause diarrhea).
Hamilton Beach Coffee Grinder - This is a great, inexpensive coffee grinder that I use to crush up kibble. I use it only for kibble. Don’t mix it with your coffee beans or spices because you don’t want traces of coffee or spices to be ingested by the cat, plus your coffee and food will probably taste funny.
Lick Mat and/or Thick Small Plastic Zip Bags
If you use baby food, it is ideal to use a lick mat so that the baby food lasts longer. When you use a squeezable treat, you can control how much treat comes out. But if you put baby food on a spoon, the cat can gobble up the baby food in one or two licks. The lick mat prevents that from happening and enables you to have the baby food last almost as long as a squeezable treat would last. Another option is to use a thick small plastic zip bag (see video below for details).
Lick Mat - Cut this into quarters so that one piece is just a little larger than your palm. I prefer to cut this into quarters. The large triangle one scares some cats.
Thick Small Plastic Zip Bags - The bags need to be small because you want it to be pretty full with only half a jar of baby food. Sandwich sized bags are too large. You also need to get thick bags that are at least 4 mils thick (5 or 6 mils is even better) so that it keeps its shape and doesn’t flop over when you hold it. Snip the corner for the baby food to squeeze out. Make sure the bags are food grade (made for food or pills).
Jeans and Sweatpants
Wear sweatpants over jeans to protect your legs when the cat walks and plays on your legs (they aren’t trying to scratch you, some cats have long claws).
Wireless Earbuds
If you have a Zoom coaching session or join a Zoom Q&A session with your cat, please use wireless earbuds because it will scare the cat to hear voices coming out of your phone. The cat will often not engage while hearing the voices. Use Zoom on your phone (not your laptop) because it is less obtrusive (the cat will be scared by the large laptop screen) and you can maneuver the phone to different angles so we can best see the cat and your hand movements to give you feedback.
You/the foster should always wear earbuds when doing video meet and greets because the cat will get scared by the voices coming from the phone. I’ve had instances when the foster joined the video chat and the second the cat hear the voices, the cat dashed off to hide and never came back out during the meet and greet.
Small Phone Tripod
If you have a Zoom coaching session or join a Zoom Q&A session with your cat, it is ideal to have a small tripod for your phone. If you don’t have one, you need to bring 2 large cat food cans to where you will sit so that you can prop up your phone against it.
FOR YOU
Litterbox
A real litter box is ideal. When the cat first arrives use a short sided uncovered litter box, otherwise the cat may hide in the litter box instead of the cat cave. Then as the cat becomes comfortable and doesn’t hide (and spends time out and about in the playpen), you could change the cat to a tall sided litter box (only if you want to, it is not required) to reduce the amount of litter kicked out of the litter box. I initially use heavy duty, extra deep full size (21 inch x 13 inch) aluminum steam trays while I’m deworming the cats to make it easy to just throw them away. I throw away the pan and use a new one right after the first dose of deworming medication and switch to a regular litter box right after the last dose. The cats sometimes scratch through the aluminum trays so you can double up the trays and place a pee pad (absorbent side up) sandwiched in between the two trays. Do not use covered litterboxes because the cat will hide in there and you won’t be able to start socializing the cat.
Paper Pellet Litter
I use paper pellet litter in a playpen for two reasons. One reason is that I don’t want clay litter to get kicked up and into the cat’s food and water. Since the playpen is a limited amount of space, you can’t keep the food/water that far away from the litter box. Another reason is that clay litter gets into the grooves of the playpen material making it hard to clean the playpen well. With the paper pellet litter, I just take a long handled broom and sweep up any that get out of the litter box.
Do not get clumping paper litter. That will be a pain to clean up. I used to use the “Yesterday’s News” brand paper pellet litter but recently they stopped selling the non-clumping kind so I switched brands to “Fresh News”. But in a pinch when I have to run to the store, I also use “So Phresh” from Petco. You can use other brands as well, and probably just keep an eye out for what goes on sale. Try to get the fragrance-free ones. The cat was rescued from the street so will be thrown off by (and maybe stay away from) fragrances.
I use 3-4 full pints of the paper pellet litter at a time. You can use the pint sized Chinese soup take-out plastic container as a scooper. Then once a day I completely throw out all the litter and replace with new litter. If you just scoop paper pellet litter it smells bad because the urine is absorbed by the pellets.
For the first 1-2 weeks, every time I replace the paper pellet litter (daily) I sprinkle Dr. Elsey’s Litter Box Attractant herbs liberally on top to get the cat to use it. I also use the paper pellet litter and litter attractant when I trap a cat and set up the trap extender with a litterbox in it.
In some rare instances, I’ve found that a cat doesn’t want to use the paper pellet litter even with the litter attractant herbs, or a cat recently rescued from the streets doesn’t want to use a litter box in general. In these cases, I temporarily switch solely to Dr. Elseys Cat Attract (use Dr. Elseys Kitten Attract if its a kitten) for a few days. Then I put a mix of Cat Attract litter and the paper pellet litter (throwing it away daily) to transition over a few days, then put only paper pellet litter. That’s worked every time.
If you are still having cat litterbox issues, it could be other causes (the same as if the cat wasn’t getting socialized) so look up solutions for that such as trying different size and type litterboxes, litter etc. and see if resident cats or loud noises might be scaring the cat while he pees.
If the cat pees or poops outside of the litter box, clean up the area well, spray with a disinfectant (like Clorox spray cleaners), wipe dry, then spray with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the cat pee smell. Otherwise the cat will smell the pee and keep peeing on that spot. My favorite enzymatic cleaner is Bac-Out. Let the enzymatic cleaner sit for 15 minutes (you can lightly cover the area with paper towels so that the cat doesn’t step on it). Then I wipe the area down with a wet paper towel so it doesn’t have a sticky feeling, then dry it.
I also pour Bac-Out into the bleach container of the washing machine if I need to wash a towel or cat bed that a cat peed in or bedsheets with pee while potty training human toddlers! I always have a gallon of this on hand.
Cat Cave
The cat must have a cat cave to have a place to hide. Choose a cat cave that is shallow/round (not deep/long and oblong) with a wide opening and low lip. We use a shallow cat cave because we don’t want the cat to squish in the back and not be able to see you slow blinking. Slow blinking is magical and if you aren’t able to get that in early on, socialization will take much longer. This is the reason why I don’t like to have carriers inside the playpen because carriers tend to be long. When I place the cat into the playpen, I open the front door of the carrier and line the carrier opening with the cat cave opening then slowly tip the carrier so that the cat starts to slide down to the cat cave. The cat will then walk the rest of the way into the cat cave.
A wide opening also makes it easier for you to just turn/tilt your head and be able to see the cat to do slow blinks. The low lip will make it less scary for the cat when you start to use treats to lure the cat towards you.
If you don’t give the cat a cat cave, it will leave the cat constantly feeling exposed. This will put the cat inn a constant state of stress and he will not be able to relax enough to start trusting you. Our primary goal in the beginning of SSL it to get the cat to relax and feel calm. Just imagine that you are afraid for your life because someone is coming at you with a knife, or you are seething with rage…your mind will not be in the right state to take in any other information or to feel trusting, calm thoughts. Your amygdala is too busy trying to keep you alive.
There are rare instances when a cat doesn’t want to be inside the cat cave and instead hides behind it. That’s ok. Still leave the cave in there for the cat to hide behind it. You may just need to gently and slowly slide the cave a little to the side during sessions starting with the slow blinking.
Make sure to check the dimensions of the cave size you choose before you buy. Follow the sizes recommended in the image of the lion caves below.
Lion Cave - This was sold out when this web page was created, but you can search for “lion cat cave”
Food and Water Bowls
I use stainless steel or ceramic bowls. Plastic harbors bacteria. I also recommend using separate bowls for food and for water because the “combined” food and water containers are more of a pain to clean. For example, if some paper pellet litter fell into the water container but there is a little food still in the food container, it’s difficult to clean only the water section without throwing out the food.
I like stainless steel bowls for the food. For water, use a heavy ceramic bowl or a stand with a stainless steel bowl so that the water will not be easily tipped over. I place a towel or a pee pad underneath the bowls to catch bits of food and pick up water that sloshes over or spills. Alternatively, you can also get the silicone tray holder with stainless steel bowl inserts (get the inserts so the food and water are in separate bowls).
I don’t recommend water fountains because I find that most people do not take apart the fountain to deep clean it often enough and do not replace (not just add to) the water often enough so there is higher risk of bacteria. Even though there is a filter, a bowl with fresh water is always cleaner and it is easier to maintain.
I make sure I have at least 2 food bowls and 2 water bowls per cat so that I always have a clean set of bowls.
Bowls with Silicone Mat - There are many kinds out there, this is a good example. Minimal is better. Too many fancy grooves make it harder to clean.
Pee Pads - My favorite are Amazon basics pee pads. I get them in both Standard and X-Large sizes. I fold the Standard size in half to place the food and water bowl on it in the playpen, and I fold the X-Large size in half to line the bottom of my carriers. In both cases, the absorbent side is facing outward.
Bedsheet
When the cat first arrives, you need to cover the playpen with a bedsheet. Make sure it is made of breathable material such as cotton (so the cat has good airflow), light/white colored so it isn’t pitch dark inside the playpen, and a queen/king size. You could also use 2 full size bedsheets.
Toys
Get a few toys for the cat to play with once he becomes comfortable such as kicker, balls, springs, etc. Leave these toys inside the playpen.
Wand Toy
The only wand toy that I use for socialization is the “Go Cat” brand “Cat Catcher” Teaser Wand. Only get the small attachments such as the mouse, bee or fish because larger attachments look like a wrecking ball swinging towards the scared cat—which will make the cat even more scared! Never leave any wand toy unattended as they are both a strangulation and choking hazard. Always put them away in the closet or drawer when you aren’t there to supervise. See more information below about how to use the wand toy for SSL.
Mouse attachment - Mickey’s Pet Supplies (the bee and fish link to Mickey’s Pet Supplies because that is the cheapest I’ve found for these wands and refills, but you can get the bee and fish ones on Amazon, Petco and other stores as well)
Mouse refills - Mickey’s Pet Supplies
Mouse attachment - Amazon
Mouse attachment - Petco
Bee attachment - Mickey’s Pet Supplies
Bee refills - Mickey’s Pet Supplies
Fish attachment - Mickey’s Pet Supplies
Fish refills - Mickey’s Pet Supplies
If you buy any supplies on amazon.com, please consider shopping through smile.amazon.com and choosing Hopewell Rescue as the 501c3 charity you want to support. You pay the same prices and do not notice a difference, but 0.5% (50 cents for every $100 spent) of your purchase is donated to the charity you choose. It’s ends up being only a few dollars a month for the recipient, but that can add up over time if enough people choose Hopewell Rescue as the charity. I made an explicit decision to make the Socialization Saves Lives information free to everyone to help as many cats as possible. By choosing Hopewell Rescue as your recipient Amazon Smile charity, you would be directly supporting the hands-on rescue work that I do.
You can find a downloadable supplies checklist on our resources page, but please read through this page for details and information for everything you need.
Nail Clipper
These are my favorite nail clippers. They only run about $10 and make a huge difference vs. other kinds. Don’t skimp to save $3, get one of these! I like this because they are spring loaded so clipping a nail is really quick and you are less likely to have a cat pull away his paw while you are still opening the clipper (post clipping a nail). They are also extremely sharp so make quick work of clipping.
You need to push the nail guard away when you use it. The guards are useless because when you clip, the current length of the nail varies, and cats have different length quicks. Some have longer quicks and some have shorter ones.
See the Nail Clipping section for a video about the nail guard and the best angle to clip a nail so that you don’t fray it.
Floor Gaming Chair (if you have back issues or can’t sit on the floor for extended periods of time)
You do not need to get this and it would actually be better to socialize without this (especially in the playpen) because it may scare the cat when you bring it in. However, if you have back issues and can’t sit on the floor for extended periods of time, this will enable you to socialize on the floor (a vital component of this method). There are different kinds and brands of floor gaming chairs. Try to get the flattest/smallest one that you can find so that your butt and legs remain as close to the ground as possible.
Selecting Treats for Socialization
Wet treats are ideal for socialization because we can use it to lure the cat towards us and over our legs. With dry treats, the cat can grab the treat then step backwards. Most cats go crazy for Churu but it’s important to only give 2 sticks a day, otherwise it can cause diarrhea and stomach issues since we socialize daily. Some cats are very sensitive and can only eat one stick a day before getting diarrhea. I’ve started to use the Petco “Whole Hearted” brand squeezable treats more and more because they have simpler ingredients so are healthier and don’t cause issues for cats with a sensitive stomach. I have two cats who vomit immediately when they get any treats (Churu, Greenies, Temptations etc.) but they don’t vomit with the “Whole Hearted” Chicken treats. Tiki Cat is also a (cat) fan favorite.
The healthiest would be to use Gerber or Beech-nut baby food. We only use baby food to socialize kittens under 14 weeks old because they have very sensitive stomachs. Make sure the baby food only contains meat and water/broth because some ingredients such as onions and garlic can cause anemia and potentially death for cats. Gerber includes cornstarch so I prefer to use Beech-Nut (Wal-mart.com has better prices than Amazon for Beechnut). If you use Beech-nut do not use the Beef flavor because it includes lemon juice.
For cats who aren’t wet treat motivated and insist on dry treats, you can crush the following items with a coffee grinder and sprinkle it on top of baby food on a lick mat: freeze dried chicken treats (you can rip apart with your fingers instead of using a coffee grinder), dry kibble or dry treats (but max 15 pieces per day otherwise it can also cause diarrhea).
There are rare situations when a cat just wants nothing to do with wet treats and will only work with you for dry treats. We’ll cover that in the variations sections—ideally using a really yummy (maybe seafood flavor) kibble.
I prefer to use the square lick mats and cut them into quarters so that they are a little bigger than my palm because the large triangle one often scares cats.
Homemade Squeezable Treats (with baby food)
The down side is that this isn't as long as a churu stick (or similar treat) which is useful for the first time you get the cat to trust you enough to eat the treat while you hold it. But it's less intimidating than a lick mat and you can control how much treat to squeeze out. It is also easier to hide when we get to the "without treats" steps.
The lick mat is still better for the kitties who try to bite the squeezable treats. (To get the cat used to the lick mat, you should place baby food on the lick mat and walk away just as you do with meals.)
This homemade version using plastic bags also gives you the ability to have a squeezable treat when the cat has diet restrictions (choose the favorite flavor food and only use that for socialization treats...do not feed that flavor as a meal).
The bags need to be small because you want it to be pretty full with only half a jar of baby food. Sandwich sized bags are too large. You also need to get thick bags that are at least 4 mils thick (5 or 6 mils is even better) so that it keeps its shape and doesn’t flop over when you hold it. Snip the corner for the baby food to squeeze out. Make sure the bags are food grade (made for food or pills).
You have 3 options for the steps that use treats to lure the cat. Use the one that works best for you, the cat and your situation.
Playpen height (24 inch vs. 36 inch)
In the beginning, you need to zip the play pen top mesh around your shoulders so that the cat doesn’t escape during a session. However, as the cat goes through the socialization program you will find that at some point soon the cat will not try to jump out of the play pen even when you have the cover almost fully unzipped. This is because the cat is so interested in the sessions with you to even consider jumping out. It’s true! All of the cats going through SSL will at some point run over to you and sit there and wait when they see you “get into socialization” position. In fact, one person I coached told me that the cat escaped out of the home (she lives in a rural area). She saw the cat running along the perimeter of the property quite a ways away and the first thing that came to mind was for her to sit down on the floor in the “socialization position” and the cat came running towards her! It really proves that they enjoy the interaction and positive reinforcement with treats and play.
It is more comfortable to sit in a 36 inch height pen in the beginning when you need to worry about the cat jumping out of the playpen. A 36 inch height playpen also lets you put a small scratcher inside. However, it is more important that you are able to step inside from the top. So if you are tall or can use a step stool or hold onto a chair next to the playpen to step into a 36 inch height playpen then that’s fine. But if you are unable to do that, you must get a 24 inch height playpen. I use the 24 inch height playpens for my own socialization work so it is easy to get in and out and to reach in to change the food and water bowls.
Where to put the playpen
To make the quickest progress, you should put the playpen in a high traffic area. High traffic means, where ever you spend most of your time when you are home so that the cat can safely observe you living your life. If you spend a lot of time on the sofa, then set up the playpen with a direct line of site to the sofa. The reason why this accelerates socialization is because you are essentially also doing “The Reset” without even trying whenever you are home so the cat gets more time to get comfortable with you.
The definition of high traffic varies a bit depending on your home situation. If it is only 2 (maybe 3) people living in the home then typically high traffic will be the living room or where ever you work from home (if you work remotely). But if you have a lot of roommates or young kids running around, it will be too busy and scary for the cat to be in the living room. In which case, the next best option is to set up the playpen in your bedroom (follow the video on how to block the space under the bed, dresser and nightstand)
To easily get an idea of where the playpen can fit, just lay down on the floor. The 62 inch diameter playpen is similar to a typical person’s height. Please be willing to push some furniture around to make space for a playpen because it makes a huge difference. If you don’t use a playpen socialization will take much longer. It will only be temporary!
If you have resident pets in the home, that’s ok! The playpen prevents them from reaching/hurting each other as long as you are comfortable the rescue cat has been properly tested for FELV. I also quarantine all new cats in a separate room for 2 weeks before setting them up in a playpen with other cats in the area.
I actually love using playpens to introduce cats to each other. With typical introductions with a door between the cats, you are always crossing your fingers and hoping for the best the moment you open that door! But with a playpen you can assess body language and the cats can get used to each other’s scent as well as getting used to seeing each other before they officially interact. I even use playpens to introduce non socialization cats to resident cats when they get adopted!
Another benefit is that the cat will progress more quickly when he gets to watch you interact with human friendly cats right next to the playpen. Pet, play with and give treats to the other cat(s) so that the socialization cat sees how happy the other cat is interacting with you. That goes a long way for him to start to trust you. Sometimes when cats are too scared to start interacting, I’ll even bring the resident cat into the playpen (as long as I see body language that they will be friendly to each other) and that often results in a breakthrough!
Setting up the playpen
Plan ahead before the cat arrives. In this video, I go through what to do when the cat first arrives and how to make your life easier to care for the cat in the playpen. When the SSL graduate cat goes to his adopter, I lend the adopter a playpen and teach the adopter the same information that is in this video.
Cleaning the litterbox in the playpen
You can reach in from the top to take out the litter box to change the litter, but if you are able to line things up inside the playpen so that the litter box is easily accessible from a side door then it’s a great way to clean the litter without disturbing the cat.
See supplies details above for information on what kind of litterbox and litter to use.
Feeding the cat in the playpen
Change the food and water from the top. Stand next to the playpen and stay near the edge—do not bend over the playpen because that is scary for the cat.
If the cat is lunging when you feed and/or change the litter in the playpen
Refer to the litterbox and feeding videos above to make sure your body position is unobtrusive. If the cat is lunging, keep yourself safe by using a large cat bed or a large flattened cardboard box as a shield to protect your hand. It’s especially important to keep the litter box near the doorway of the playpen.
DO NOT sit inside the playpen when the cat is still lunging. You need to stick to sitting sideways of the cat next to the playpen and slow blink the cat. If the cat is hiding in the cat cave while you do this, make sure to position your body so that the cat can see your eyes from where you are sitting. If the cat isn’t known to hate other cats, also pet, play and give treats to a human friendly cat while you sit outside/next to the playpen.
Remember, the cat you are socializing is scared and just trying to protect himself from you. Don’t take it personally and don’t feel frustrated, because if you internalize it, you will give off negative energy which the cat will respond negatively to. Just imagine if you were the cat who doesn’t yet understand that you are helping him.
How to fold up the playpen
I make a “W” shape with the corners of the play pen. Do it so that the elastic band is on an outer edge (or the top middle point of the “W”) so that when you are done, you can wrap the playpen with the elastic band. After making the “W”, it will not fully flatten because you have the floor in between the walls. I turn it upside down, hold the middle of the floor and shake it to pull all of the floor out, then fold the floor over one side.
If you really can’t fit a playpen
Keep in mind, if you don’t use a playpen it will take longer to socialize the cat. If you can’t fit a playpen, the next best option is your bedroom. You must block off under the bed and other furniture (see video below on how best to do that) so that you control where the cat is hiding. Imagine being the cat under the bed and a scary person is reaching in trying to touch or grab you…how can you learn to trust that big, scary human? Make sure to provide one or more cat caves to give the cat places to hide where you can still interact with the cat for the socialization steps. The bedroom is the next best option because the cat can observe you sleeping. The cat knows when you are sleeping and will feel safe during those times.
Try not to place the cat in a bathroom that is used. If it is a spare bathroom, you can use it as a last resort. This is because the cat will be isolated and will only see you when you come in to socialize so this will move very slowly.
Bathrooms that are used are the worst place to put a cat. Imagine how scary it is when people suddenly come in and out throughout the day only for a minute or two to use the toilet (you probably don’t have time to sit for 20+ minutes to socialize every time you pee).
And how scary is it when the humans take a shower with the loud running water?
How to block off under furniture
Boxes, books and general “stuff” under the bed and furniture don’t work. Many times when I guided people in the past, they tried to use boxes, books and other stuff but the cats were slinky and squeezed their way between the stuff. I tried other options, but found that the best option is to just block off with cardboard and painters tape. We use painters tape so we don’t ruin walls and furniture. Use a lot of tape! Because if you skimp on the tape, the cat can pry open a corner and get in (yes, this has happened to some people I guided). Then you have to remove all of the cardboard, try to get the cat out, then re-tape the whole thing again. You end up using up more tape in the end when you skimp on it!
Propping up the phone for video coaching calls and recording videos to get feedback
Use your smart phone instead of a laptop for video coaching calls or to record videos for feedback. The laptop is difficult to maneuver around and the large screen throws the cat off. Ideally get a phone tripod for maximum flexibility to set it up, but you can also use 2 large cans of cat food or a tall food can.
Preparing the wand toy for socialization
We do most of our socialization sitting down on the floor to be at the cat’s level, so we need to shorten the length of the wand toy wire string. This is an easy way to do that.
I also demonstrate an alternative way to move the wand around in the beginning when the cat is still to scared to come out and play.
How to use the wand toy for socialization
You want to move the wand toy with quick, jerky movements. You also need to mix it up because when it is predictable, it becomes boring for the cat.